By Bernie Bell

We haven’t been to the Hall of Clestrain since before Covid hit, and we have been very Covid cautious ever since.  As members of the John Rae Society https://www.johnraesociety.com we’ve been kept up to date with progress, but that’s not the same as actually being there and seeing what’s what.

There were two Open Days advertised, on the 14th and 15th of September, with free guided tours at 11 am, 1 pm and 2.30 pm.

The vile weather experienced by Orkney during the week had calmed itself, so we decided to catch up with Clestrain.

One of the main aims of the JRS at the moment is to develop a separate access road to the Hall…. ‘The Road to the Arctic’…

https://www.johnraesociety.com/road-to-the-arctic

But until that’s in place, visitors drive down the farm road, along the track and park on the grass in front of the hall.

the house, the hall of Clestrain in a state of needing repairs

If the present plans come to fruition ( fingers crossed!) the asbestos sheeting which forms the roof will be replaced by an Orkney slate roof –with a fine triangular Palladian pediment at the front – as it used to be.

The JRS have Planning Permission – now they need the funding. 

Casey Construction  https://www.orkney.com/listings/casey-construction-limited  generously donated a smart Portacabin to the JRS, to use as a temporary Visitor Centre.  This means that JRS can display information and artefacts in a warm, dry place – and – it’s got a loo!

flat roofed out building

There was JRS merchandise for sale, including the JRS Calendar for 2025

in the shop, cups, books and calendars

a large cabinet containing Inuit artefacts and carvings

 And a smaller cabinet displaying some of the David Sharp collection

carved items including a small totem pole and polar bears

 Andrew Appleby  (President of the JRS) was taking his ease between giving guided tours

Andrew Appleby sitting down

We paused to take a pic. of the gateway to what will become the entrance from the new access road

large farm gate at entrance to muddy track

And proceeded into the Hall, where Andrew pointed out where the original floor level was, on which was a stone slab on which there would have been a cast-iron cooking range and before/behind that, a fireplace. 

When the occupants of the Hall wanted to use the ground floor for keeping pigs, the range was taken out and the ground floor covered with rubble from the demolished  outbuilding which used to balance the remaining out-building in the yard.  The rubble formed a base for laying a concrete floor – but this means that the original stone will be available for building work – possibly when converting  the remaining outbuilding into a visitor Centre?

large hole in the floor

 A Household Goddess stands by the hearth

carved replica of a simple Neolithic house goddess

The ceiling beams are blackened by years of smoke

roof beams

 And, at one time, swallows made their home there too

large roof beams with a birds nest attached

The ceiling is being held up by scaffolding poles sponsored by members of the public

uprights supporting the ceiling beams

Pig pens still occupy the ground floor from when the hall was used to house livestock, and the old wooden gates are still there – part of the story which will disappear when the ground floor is cleared

concrete pig pen dividers

And so, upstairs – to what is now one big room with a fireplace at either end

A view from one of the windows shows the line of what will be the new access road

long wall leading through the fields up to the main road

The next floor up is out of bounds

stone spiral staircase leading upwards

so, back down the winding stair and out to our car, then into Stromness for lunch at Adam’s Place – very good indeed! 

And to say ‘Hello’ to The Man Himself

statue of John

My previous ramblings re. Clestrain & John Rae, https://theorkneynews.scot/page/2/?s=Clestrain+Bernie+bell

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The Orkney News produced a film about The John Rae Society’s campaign for ‘The Road to the Arctic’. Filmed by Martin Laird, Andrew Appleby explains the importance of the building and takes the viewer around it.

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